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Monthly Archives: February 2017

Stainless Steel Sinks

  • Stainless steel sinks are relatively easy to clean and they tend to stay looking new for a longer period of time as long as they are cared for properly. You would not have to worry about leaving orange juice stains overnight, as it can easily be cleaned the following day. Stains can cause dulling and scratching however, so it is still best to wipe debris and spills as soon as possible. Putting rubber or plastic mats in the sink can protect it from scratches and protect its shiny surface.
  • There are lots of durable and beautiful stainless steel sinks that do not have rims or seams. The absence of seams gives a very modern and sleek appearance. These are usually made from one single solid steel sheet. Seamless sinks are easiest to clean and to keep clean. There are no crevices or cracks where bacteria, germs and grime can hide in.
  • Stainless steel sinks come in various styles so that you can easily find one that will suit your kitchen theme and style. They are also available in various colors, sizes, and finishes so that it is compatible with any kind of cabinetry or furniture.
  • Stainless steel sinks come in single, two-bowl and three-bowl models, each with varying depths. Depending on how much kitchen work and washing you do, there are a wide variety to choose from. For instance, if you wash lots of pans daily, you can choose a deep, two bowl sink to make sure that there is room for soaking, and for multi-tasking. You can specifically choose one that will best suit your kitchen needs.
  • The best advantage of stainless steel sinks is that they are relatively cheaper than other materials, such as granite. Prices of kitchen sinks vary depending on various factors such as sink size, finish, manufacturer’s brand or image, and features it may boast about. There are a wide variety of choices so that you can definitely find one that will best choose your budget without compromising quality.

Bespoke Furniture

Do your research

Choosing the right craftsman is probably the most important decision you will make during the project. The best way to find a reputable cabinet-maker is by word of mouth. Regardless of whether they come by recommendation or through an advertisement, you should always ask to see some of their past commissions – they will probably have a portfolio to show you, but visiting past customers and looking at finished products will give you a better idea of the service and quality of work.

Check for hidden costs

A good cabinet-maker will pay a visit to you at home in order to see where the furniture is to go and to discuss how you will be using it and what specific ideas you have. They will then draw up a design for you and give you an initial quote, but be aware that you may be charged separately for the design itself before any work is started. This is simply to deter time-wasters, but make sure you establish whether the initial quote you are given includes this.

Measure up

It may seem obvious, but once your cabinet-maker has supplied you with your design, do check that the measurements are accurate in terms of how the piece will be used. For instance, if you are having a dining table made to match a set of chairs, make sure that the chairs will comfortably fit underneath the finished product. If it is a corner unit, the exact angle of the corner should be checked to ensure the unit will fit snug to the wall.

Well placed

You should also take into account the position of the furniture. Will it be in direct sunlight? In this case you will need to choose a light-fast stain for the wood. Will it be near a radiator? This could warp the wood, so it might be an idea to move the radiator along the wall.

Timely finish

If the furniture is for a gift or a special occasion, such as Christmas, it is sensible to agree a finish-date a few weeks before you actually need it, in case there are any problems and the project goes on for longer than expected. Once you have the final piece, have a good look at it to make sure it is perfect. Don’t be afraid to complain about a poor finish or request a slight alteration on the design – you want this piece to last for years to come and you should be nothing less than 100 per cent happy with it.

Faucet Replacement

The first step in faucet replacement is looking for the right faucet. Although there are many types, styles and combinations of faucets in the market today, the first thing you have to be concerned about is whether the faucet you choose will fit into the old sink.

Also keep in mind that for supply connections, there are two possibilities. Your faucet could either have flexible copper supply inlets found in the center of the unit, or the inlets could be located under the hot and cold handles.

Before anything else, shut off the main water supply. You can do this by shutting off the control valve found under the sink. It is also recommended that you prepare all the necessary materials beforehand, and don’t forget to prepare some penetrating oil in case the mounting nuts are hard to remove, and are stuck. It is also best if you have someone around to help you in handing out the tools as you work. Also, don’t forget to plug the drain with rags so that small parts like screws and bolts cannot go down the drain.

– Remove the old fixture

First, remove the nuts that attach the hose to the faucet body and the spray head to the sink (if you’re using a faucet with sprayer). Remove supply lines and set them aside. Remove the mounting nuts that hold the faucet body to the sink. Use your wrench for this. If mounting nuts are difficult to pry loose, use penetrating oil.

Once faucet is removed, clean the sink from putty and mineral deposits by scraping it off (you can use a steel wool).

– Attach new faucet to the sink

You can use a rope of plumber’s putty or install a gasket either to the sink or to the faucet. Put the new faucet in place, making sure that it is parallel to the backsplash. Move under the sink and ask someone to hold the faucet for you while you work. Screw on a washer and mounting nut on every inlet, and tighten using basin wrench.

– Connect supply lines

Cover inlet threads with Teflon tape or with pipe joint compound. Afterwards, twist the supply line nut on the inlet and start tightening it, by hand at first, and then by wrench. Connect shutoff valve to the other end of supply line using the same procedure.

If flexible copper inlets are used for water supply, the same applies, except that you have to ascertain that no copper tubes are twisted. The faucet could become destroyed if copper tubes are twisted.

– Connect and adjust the pop-up drain assembly

If installing a bathroom faucet, insert a ball rod into the opening located in the drain body. Secure it using the nut provided. Slip the rod through the clevis strap. Afterwards, secure it using spring clips. Lower the rod through the hole near the rear of the faucet spout, up until the holes at the upper end of clevis strap. Tighten the thumbscrew and adjust the rods.

Build Wood Fence

Before you get started you must first figure out your fence line. This will help you calculate the materials needed to build your fence. When determining your fence line the best thing to do is talk to your neighbors. If you’re in disagreement you can look for the property survey markers or if all else fails have your property surveyed. It’s best to keep the entire fence on your property. Once you know the fence line mark it with a string line. Using stakes hammered into the ground run the line 2 feet past each end of the fence line. Secure the string tightly to the stakes.

Next you need to treat your posts by following the manufacturers recommendations. I would suggest treatment at least 8 inches above ground level. You can also purchase posts that are pre-treated from your lumber store if you wish.

Measure your post holes 8 feet apart. I wouldn’t recommend any further apart as through time your fence may sag or lean. Dig the holes about 28 inches deep. Make sure all posts are of equal distance apart. It’s now time to prepare your concrete for setting the posts. Mix your concrete with 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 3 parts gravel. Add water and mix to a thick consistency but at the same time wet enough to pour all the way around the posts. Fill each hole 6 inches deep. Now it’s time to place the posts in every hole. Use a level to make sure each post is plumb and barely touching the string. Finish filling each hole to about 2 inches below ground level. Double check each post making sure it’s plumb.

After the posts have set it’s time to add the railings. Make sure to set the bottom rail 8 inches above ground and be careful to have both ends the same height from the ground. Fasten the top rails by measuring from the bottom rail up to the desired position. Finally attach the middle rail central between the bottom and top rails.

Before you nail the boards to the railings you might want to consider staining or painting them first as it is easier than doing this after they’ve been fastened. If you decide to go this route you should also stain or paint the posts and rails prior to attaching the boards. Using a spacer to maintain equal gaps you can begin nailing the boards to the rails, using 2 of the 2 1/2 inch nails hammered on each rail. Use a level to make sure the boards are vertically plumb.

Now that your fence is up you probably want a gate. First you need to determine the size of the gate. I would recommend a gate no less than 3 feet wide. You should build a frame with the 2×4’s overlapping and attach a middle rail for durability and strength. To allow room for the hinges and latch make sure the gate frame is built allowing 1 inch narrower between the gate posts. Next attach the fence boards and finally install the hinges and latch.