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Monthly Archives: December 2016

Tricks Install Floor Tile

The technique to installing floor tile is start laying the floor from the center of the room. The measure of the room should be done exactly and the any irregularities ignored. The center location on the floor has to be marked accurately using a chalk line. Lines should be drawn across the length and breadth of the room and the place where the lines intersect is the center. Recheck the accuracy of the center position as it is very important for quality floor tile installation.

The second step is to lay loose tile from the centre along the marked chalk lines. After laying the loose tiles, measure the distance of the last tile from the wall. This will give you an idea of the size of the last tile that needs to be placed to finish the row. Once you have an idea by placing the loose tiles you can have an idea of the number of tiles required to complete the entire room.

The third step is to place different color tiles at different locations as per your choice. Open the boxes and place the tiles at the accurate places on the floor. Now, start applying the adhesives on one fourth of the floor area and wait for sometime. It generally takes about 10-15 minutes for the adhesive to dry before you can start installing floor tiles. However, the time may depend on the temperature and humidity.

Start placing the tiles along lines starting from the center of the floor. Remember, placing the first tile correctly as it is very important and determine the finish. Place each tile firmly on the ground and also against another tile. This will ensure a quality finish. The border tile should be cut accurately to give a perfect finishing to the room. When fitting a tile along a pipe or any other obstruction, simply cut the tile into that shape so that it fits exactly into that position. Do not wash the tiles at least one week after installing floor tile.

Home Security Projects

Check the lighting around your home

How well is your home illuminated at night? Are the doors and windows dark or well lit? Motion activated lights are a great way to illuminate the outside of your home without having to leave the light on all night long.

Check the shrubs and bushes around your home

Have the bushes grown up so tall that you can not see the window from the street? If so, it is time to break out the hedge clippers and trim back the bushes. Tall bushes are a great place for a bugler to hide in and work on breaking into your home.

Add home security devices

If you already have a home security system installed, take an inventory of the accessories. There are a lot of home security accessories, such as sirens, strobe lights, motion detectors, surveillance cameras, and glass break detectors that can be added to your security system.

A commonly overlooked accessory category is fire and smoke detection. Consider adding smoke, heat and carbon dioxide detectors to your home security system.

A secure and locking mailbox

Why do you need one? Simple, two words identity theft. Around the first and fifteenth of every month people pay their bills. Their mail boxes are filled with credit card statements, utility bills and a host of other bills. For an identity theft, this is great information to use to steal your identity.

Video cameras

Video cameras have come down in price and the features that you can get in a camera are astounding. For the outside of you home invest in night vision video cameras that use infrared emitters to ‘light’ up the area they are watching.

Timber Retaining Wall

Timber Tie-Backs

If your wall will be higher than about 18 inches use tie-back timbers every eight or ten feet on various levels to hold your wall upright and make sure it will not fall forward due to the constant pressure exerted upon it from behind (top failure). To add a tie-back timber, simply lay one timber perpendicular to the other timbers but with its length extending into the area that will be back filled. When the area is back filled this timber will act as an anchor to hold the wall in place and ensure your timber retaining wall will last.

Timbers United into One Structure

One aspect of my retaining wall design which is a little different from others you may see is that I prefer to unite the entire timber retaining wall structure with re-bar driven vertically through all the timbers and into the ground via a hole that is drilled through all the retaining wall timbers after they are completely stacked. The re-bar should fit tightly into the drilled hole.

This step might be an overkill but I like strong stuff that lasts a long time. An alternative but similar method is to drive re-bar through the bottom two or three layers when the wall is about half-built and then connect the bottom timbers to the top layers once the top layers are added (see pictures).

Use Properly Treated Quality Timbers

Some books and sites will recommend that you use “garden timbers” (those cheap ones with two round sides and two flat edges) to build a retaining wall but I strongly advise against that practice because “garden timbers” are typically made from the cheapest pieces of wood leftover from the production of other lumber or plywood and contain mostly heartwood which does not accept pressure treatments. They will probably be heavily rotted within a few years and will quickly fail.

Building a timber retaining wall is hard work so use timbers that will last. You might even consider using timbers with a vinyl or polymer coating. American Pole and Timber is a reputable company that ships quality timbers nationwide and offers a few types of vinyl coatings that can make wood last virtually forever.

Step by step Build Trebuchet

If you’re building a trebuchet for the sole purpose of your high school physics teacher’s amusement, then you should probably consider one of the counterweight variety. If, on the other hand, you are building a trebuchet for fun or self education, the traction trebuchet may be something to seriously consider. (Keep in mind that at least three-fourths of the “free” plans on the web are of the counterweight flavor.)

Once you have determined your design plan, you probably want to decide on a suitable size. If your looking to launch bowling balls the length of a football field, you will want a much larger trebuchet than if your intending to launch eggs at incoming traffic. Which, of course, is a BAD thing to do. (Based on personal experience most drivers won’t enjoy chipping dried egg off their windshield.) Another point of interest is whether or not to buy premade trebuchet kits or design plans for your trebuchet. If you are just a beginner, kits are excellent to use. Plans also will help you out immensely if you are just a beginner.

Now, the next step is construction of your trebuchet. For most people, I would suggest using 1″x2″ pine for all of the pieces. But, if your going to be building a 10ft tall trebuchet, stretch for the 2×4’s. Once you have completed your trebuchet structure-wise, you will need to construct a sling and if used, a suitable counterweight. I prefer cutting up any kind of old cloth and attaching both ends to lengths of string.

Suitable counterweights can be anything from a box/bottle full of lead shot, to a sock full of rocks, or a dumbbell weight. After you have all of that stuff sorted out, you should attach the trigger mechanism and release pin. There are plans and pictures of these on most sites, but the only advice I can give you is that the release pin is the trickiest part of constructing a trebuchet. It should be angled so that the sling releases the projectile at an angle of somewhere around 45 degrees.

Final word: Building a trebuchet can be lots of fun and be a great learning experience. (Or sometimes an unbelievable chore for those unlucky physics students such as myself). Construct your trebuchet with quality and take care to add support where needed and it will last you a long time.